From the diary – Langkawi

Aerial view of Langkawi

Taj Rebak Island

 Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 islands and is located in the Southern Andaman sea off northern mainland Malaysia. We landed in Langkawi on a hot friday afternoon, after a quick transit via Kuala Lumpur. As we were descending into Langkawi , we took in the the views from the airplane window and it was simply breathtaking. Emerald green and sapphire blue waters, laced with numerous lush islands gleamed in the dazzling sun.Langkawi airport is a quaint little airport , nestled in between lush green hills , with the northern end of the runway a few hundred meters away from the crystal blue waters. The arrival lounge and the airport by itself reminds you of the old HAL airport in Bangalore where everything ticks away at its own pace. Temperature of around 33 degrees c and a humidity over 90% greeted us. We were welcomed by the resort staff who was a friendly malay chap who knew a bit of hindi and so declared it very proudly. We had booked into the Taj Rebak Island resort. Rebak Island is a ten minute boat ride from the jetty on the main island of Langkawi called Langasuka. We drove to the Langasuka jetty where Taj have their speed boats ferrying guests to and fro from the main island to their resort at Rebak island. The resort has around 85 rooms with their VIP guest being a 10 feet monitor lizard who gets fed everyday by the doting staff at 3 PM. No, he does not have a room , but ambles around lazily in the dense undergrowth close to the resort.Our first evening at the resort was spent exploring the island. We cycled around a bit, got into the pool and then watched the sun set.By then, worked up a good appetite for a great buffet spread for dinner. The good thing about Taj was there was an ample choice of Indian spread and the chettinad spread was my favorite that night.

When you are on holidays you are torn between spending a lot of time lazing and not doing anything or getting around and making the most of your time, taking in asmuch of the place. So we decided to get early starts and relax during the evenings. The next day we headed off to the northern part of the main island of Langkawi for a mangrove tour by boat. The tour starts off in the backwaters and winds down to the open sea.The tour covers the Kilim geopark area of Langkawi. It was a fascinating experience as you get very close to the mangrove jungle that sucks to every drop of salt water coming its way and rooting itself firmly. It is a constant battle between the mangroves and the sea, the mangroves expand themselves slowly and steadily over the years and form land masses and eventually into islands that break off.Our guide for the tour was a local, whose english was quite good and had an irritating habit of saying bye bye to every thing we saw and left.So it was bye bye limestone caves, bye bye bats , bye bye monitor lizards and so on!

Kilim Geo Park

 The boat winded itself down to our first stop , an island which was famous for its limestone caves, stalagmite and stalactite formations.
A limestone cave with majestic formations was home to numerous bats clinging to the high ceilings. I feel sorry for the poor chaps who get disturbed the whole day by jabbering tourists and flashing cameras.

Limestone caves

The trail leading to the cave was filled with murky soil where water had receded due to the low tide. All along were tree roots fighting for space and new roots were springing everywhere in gay abandon.

Mangrove roots

We then continued along the mangrove jungle slowly in the boat and spotted monitor lizards ,a sleeping viper , kingfishers , monkeys en route to the open majestic sea where we sped along to an other island on the geo park where Brahmani Kites are fed in the open waters by the local boatmen and it is a well orchestrated part of the tourist attraction.

Mr Monitor

Our last stop of the tour was for lunch on a floating restaurant which had the local seafood being served Malay style. There were also couple of fish breeding areas alongside the restaurant. A jolly , chubby Malay girl was feeding some of the captive species and got me to feed a gigantic barracuda. The sting rays were acting like kids , they literally would pull themselves up on the side of the massive cement tanks and feed so gleefully on bits of fish. The restaurant was called ” Hole in the wall “. Could not figure why it was called that. I had a lot of issues as usual about this place and it was a tall order not to exhibit my displeasure on some of the local delicacies. I was assured that the fish in captivity were not served on the table.

After the tour, we went to the cable car station that starts in the oriental village of the northwest of Langkawi. This cable car ride was far steeper than the one I have been in at Cairns in Australia and at Hong Kong’s Lantau island.The views from atop are breathtaking.The last station is approx 780 meters high. What is even more interesting is the suspension bridge that has been built at this height connecting two mountains. The highlight of this bridge which I gathered from some of the local tamil sightseers was that the climax scene of Ajith’s movie “Billa” ( remake of Don )was shot here. The tourists were so excited that “Thalla” aka Ajith had shot for the blockbuster here. I do not miss any of Ajith’s movies either and I remembered the climax where Ajith does a lot of stunts on this bridge.

Suspended bridge at 708 mts

The next day was an early start yet again and we went on an Island hopping trip. We took a boat that started off at a jetty close to Pantai Cenang which is the main strip of Langkawi. Our first stop was to an island that had the most magnificent fresh water lake atop a hill.The lake is cradled in between emerald green hills. We took a paddle boat ( solar powered that is apt when you are tired of paddling )and drifted around the lake .

Freshwater lake

After this , we then sped off to another island which was secluded and found a beach that was not covered by the setting high tide as yet. We spent a good amount of time in the cool waters and soaked in the blazing sun. There were a few monkeys on the island who were interested in pulling the bags and clothes we had hung on the trees and so we reluctantly pulled ourselves out of the water and decided to head back.

A pristine secluded beach

We went back to the resort , had a great thali for lunch. Then we did a bit of kayaking around Rebak Island, very much in view of the resort as I was not exactly an expert at this. We lazed around in the resort that evening and then I pampered myself with a wonderful aromatherapy massage on the beach.The setting was serene, and I watched the low tide come in , otters came in to feed on struggling fish in the receding waters as the sun set over Langkawi.

Rebak island resort...

Dinner that night was a la carte and we tried some of the local malay curries.
The next day was our last in Langkawi , we hired a car and a driver and headed to Kuah town on the south east coast. The drive along the coast was splendid.There we did a bit of shopping, the batik dresses you get here are very pretty and different. The entire island is duty free by the way. Kuah has a big square called the eagle square where a huge eagle presides over the town.

Eagle at Kuah

We then went back to Pantai Cenang and had a great lunch at a local restaurant there. It was then time to bid adieu to Langkawi and we drove to the airport to catch an evening flight to Kuala Lumpur. As we took off , I watched the emerald islands get smaller, I was content that we chose to spend some good time in Langkawi. With deforestation so rampant in other parts of the world, the Malaysian government has enforced strict rules for preserving its natural heritage and people abide by the law. We have carried back some wonderful memories of this enchanting place and will be happy to visit it again soon.

Sunset over Rebak


69 Responses to “From the diary – Langkawi”

  1. Lovely description! You ought to get into travel writing! Enjoyed every bit of it!

  2. parmaatma Says:


    Each picturs speaks a thousand words! And the Eagle is regal!

    Nature to be commanded must be obeyed! (Jeeves, someone has said this before… Shakespeare?… No?… never mind… but ripe stuff I’d say)

    Is Langkawi close to the equator? It must rain practically every day! And rubber plantations too!


    • Thanks Sudhir . Must be Jeeves, better than Shalespeare and more practical. Not many rubber plantations around Langkawi, more of tge spice plantations though. Langkawi is tropical more or less the entire year, but there are a few months when there is no rain..

  3. Nice pics. Like those caverns,fresh water lake, & greenery around it, calm & clean pearly beach,serene blue water and Eagle obviously.
    Nothing is more beautiful than nature if one can understand and value it. Land erosion is a very scary thing for existence of an island. those roots condition seems very scary too. Glad to know that Gov. woke up not too late to take care of issues and ppl don’t ignore it either abiding by law.

    • MonaLisa – It is amazing how some of these small countries like Malaysia and Singapore have excelled. Yes, people abide the law because there is serious repursussion if not,

    • parmaatma Says:

      Sharmila and MOnaLisa,

      The real heroes, I feel, are the ones who overcome inhabitable conditions.

      In the desert, every year we have a few cases of man-lost. For instance a vehicle breakdown in the middle of nowhere. The driver is stranded without any life support. The GPS network depends on the battery and after a few hours it gives up. The only choice he has is to trace his own path backward. The blow-sand covers his tracks within no time. 5 of 10 people collapse in the heat and die of sun-strokes.

      Over the last 2 decades, several rules have come out of the learnings from these events. Like no one goes without a proper journey management plan. Each journey is monitored from two ends, the departure and arrival points. If the vehicle doesn’t reach in time, a search and rescue team is dispatched on the route.

      Brave people come up with brave solutions. And eventually we learn to survive with nature and then use it to meet our needs.

      Every creature has unique set of senses that provide for its mean of survival. Like, the hammer head shark has a built-in mechanism to locate objects with the help of electro-magnetic transmitters and receivers under its gills! A bat and so on..

      We have a memory and vocational analytical skills. For good or bad it always supports survival one way or another.

      Perhaps, one of the reasons why cowboys were so popular in the wild west!


      • Sudhir – Yes, every terrrain requires a different skill set to survive. Living in a city is as hazardous as living in a desert. The key to survival remains in the acumen.

      • “Servival of the fittest” is an old saying now. It should be “Servival of the skillest” instead ! 🙂
        Life has become nothing but ‘Management skill’. Time Management,Money Managemant, Business Managemant, Health Management,Retire Managemant,Funeral Management etc etc….
        You miss one step in Management and you are Doomed! 😦
        Its better to get along with Nature and Learn from it.

      • parmaatma Says:

        MonaLisa & Sharmila,

        MonaLisa, you could have made a million dollars if you had sold this idea to someone in Harvard Business School. Now they will soon come up with a new PG Diploma in ‘Doom Management’…


      • Doom mismanagement is how we run the country…

      • parmaatma Says:

        I can answer that:

        Once there were three professional who were arguing on whose profession is oldest on earth.

        One was a Civil Engineer, another an Architect and the third was a poltician.

        The Civil Engineer claimed that his profession was the oldest. When the world was in complete disorder and unsafe for humans, he built roads, bridges, houses, water supply and clean locations for human to live.

        The architect said his profession was the oldest because the Civil Engineer had merely done what the Architect has designed. The utter chaos was studied by the Arhitect and he evolved a plan to set it right.

        The politician smiled at both of them and said, “Guys, politicians are the oldest… who do you think created the chaos?”


      • Wow! lives would have been pretty miserable without politicians !! 🙂
        World would have been in quite pathetic state without them ! ha..ha….

      • So…. you Guys are the main culprits to create all these environmental imbalance..! 😦

      • parmaatma Says:


        Be my guest! I will give you a free ride!


      • Lol..! in that case send some FREE GAS/ OIL for my Guzzlers..! 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:

        In the Arabian culture, guests are not allowed to say no to the services offered respectfully.

        We will be serving you delicious meals from jelly fish pickles to fried shark-snoots cooked in animal fat!

        The Jelly fish comes from Cebu in the Philipines, the shark-snoot is from Madagscar and the animal fat is from Denmark or obese Americans!

        Welcome to Sudhir’s lair! 🙂

        PS: Now you know why I am a pure veggie! 😛


      • Wow! All that Delicacies ! watering my mouth. So amazed & Flabbergasted by Arab Hospitality ! Ouch! saliva drooling,dribbling all over on my keyboard ! 😉
        Gosh! Always wondering What those cosmetologists be doing with those lipids succussioned from all those celebrities and other Rich citizens of USA !? now i know! they sell it to Arab countries or bartering for GAS/OIL !!! 🙂
        Hmmm…. Thanx for updation though ! But me not a blood sucker(leech) or fat eater/drinker. 😦

      • parmaatma Says:


        Just kidding.

        You are welcome anytime. I assure you the food is the best anywhere in the world. All possible delicacies in the world.


      • Great! Guests always get free rides , treats in good restaurants and load of gifts..! 🙂

      • I know !!! Sudhir ! Aah..! Too late now..Grrr….. I spilled the beans already..! silly me…! Duh !!! I am poorer a million $$$ now !!! 😦

      • Yep! True life Heroes are The Real Heroes. To save lives in different situations is more important than anything else in the world.
        I am surprised they didn’t find any system to detect sand storms ahead of time like other natural disasters. Wonder they didn’t build roads thru N thru so that no one get lost in Deserts. They are(middle east countries) filthy rich with that ‘Black Gold’ money that they can buy entire world out.
        Certainly there is an inbuilt defense mechanism already there in all species as nature’s Gift. Its depends just on one’s discretion how & when to use it.
        Whether to be a cowboy or Tarzan is one’s free will. 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:

        When in the desert and no trees to monkey around, I wear the hat of a cowboy. When in the forest of Ooty among the dense Nilgiri I become an apeman.

        Sudhir is rarely a normal human being!


      • parmaatma Says:

        The desert is vast. In Oman it occpies about 70% of the land- about 500,000 Sq Kms.

        Oil & Gas producing fields are protected by not having tarmac roads. Track roads made temporarily to build a facility.

        Cities are not developed near Oil fields. Development is always in coastal areas where there is easy access to transport for the traders.

        Black-Gold is right. Saudi produces about 10 million barrels (200 liters to a barrel) every single day. At USD $50/- per barrel, the revenue is 500 million dollars a day!

        The world produces and consumes about 83 million barrels of hydrocarbon Oil & Gas every day which is 1.6 billion litres of energy drawn from the earth and released into the atmosphere every 24 hours for the past 75 years!

        Th earth is going cold in its belly while the atmosphere warms up.

        According to the latest exploration results, there is enough commercial reservoir in the world to keep producing for another 40 years. The main regions are the Middle East, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Venezuela and North China. There are small patches in the desert of India but very little stock comparatively.

        The oceans are still largely unexplored. So there is hope there.


      • Sudhir,

        Do you believe that 40 years from now we will still rely on fossil fuels?

      • parmaatma Says:


        We won’t be alive then. But 40 years from now, fossil fuel will be the cheapest one in the markets.

        The technology is now so advanced that one installation costs barely 30 million dollars and produces for 25 years at 500,000 dollars a day.

        The population is predicted at around 9 billion by 2050. And the estimated demand for all types of energy will always be more than the supply.

        Those are cold calculations by wizards of the industry.

        Alternative sources like the Hydrogen cell has been tested and launched in many countries like Ireland and Netherlands. Nuclear energy is also common thanks to Becktel and Co.

        But note that all alternative fuels are developed to meet the excess demand, not for replacing the current supply.

        There is no way we can stop the increasing need for energy.


      • parmaatma Says:

        Oops, I mean Iceland not Ireland.

        Ireland is still battling for castles with UK!


      • Working in the field you know much more than I do.

        What about nuclear fusion? Is there no hope on the horizon for that?

      • And no, I don’t believe the two of us will be dead by 2050 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:

        There is hope.

        Nuclear fusion is the final frontier. Currently not viable because it takes more in more energy than it give out!

        There is no serious investment yet in fusion.

        Presently the industry is eyeing the Carbon Capture technology being tested in Scandinavian countries. I think Sweden has come up with something really good.


      • parmaatma Says:

        Ofcourse we will be dead.

        And if re-born by accident, you will be in the desert and I will be having beer in California!

        🙂 🙂 🙂

      • Well, in any case, I am grateful to you for letting my old Volvo keep guzzling for another 40 years.

        As long as you guys leave our coast alone…how’s that for hypocrisy?

      • Margaritas, not beer, just had one with the Mexican dinner 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:

        That is not hypocracy. That is living with the reality.

        Hypocracy would be going around the world in a Concorde asking everyone to reduce consumption of cooking gas!


      • Not in my back yard – you think that is a commendable attitude?

      • parmaatma Says:

        I think that is a rational attitude.

        No airs of sacrifices!

        You need the fuel. You cannot afford anything better than the Volvo (which is a good car BTW. And I like the semi-truck model).

        It is a crime only if you believe that the eligible should be sacrificing for the incapable. In that case, you would be right – you won’t deserve to be happier than others.

        Speaking for myself, I think it is rational to live with reality.


      • We create our own reality. But a discussion about that would lead too far, let’s not get into that 🙂 🙂 🙂

        In the meantime I shall be happy to drive around, perhaps in an energy-saving Prius in due time, along our unpolluted coast. And ride my bike whenever it is sunny. Don’t worry, be happy, right….

      • parmaatma Says:


        And don’t forget good housekeeping.

        Other creatures from the animal kingdom breed faster than humans. Before you know, the beaches will be occupied by sweet, smiling alligators!


      • Obviously you have not seen our beaches yet. They are occupied by 6000-pound elephant seals. Your poor alligators have no chance. And all they do here is breed…

  4. Hello Sharmila,

    Lucky you…on holiday again and so soon after your recent trip to Europe !
    Yes, Langkawi is a beautiful place for a holiday. I rate holiday destinations with what my children say – Switzerland, Rome, Paris, Bali, Langkawi, Kota Kinabalu, Egypt and Goa got the highest marks when my girls said “Do we have to return to HKG ? Can we not live here ?!!”

    Btw, I was hoping to see, closer to the award day, some article on LK in SCMP, but none until today. You write so well; why don’t you rush off something really good to SCMP to publish on 22nd ?? Time may now be short, but no harm in trying ?

    Secondly, are you coming to the Awards Function on 22nd ? My Secy’s persuasive skills got me complimentary passes !

    • Thanks Veekay, yes, Langkawi is indeed pristine and beautiful. Yes, we should be there, fingers crossed. Glad you got the comp passes..:) Morning Post, serious?? I should write in one of the locals in Chinese on LK….:)

      • I wouldn’t like you to be in any uncertainty, keeping your fingers crossed; hnc glad to offer you 2 passes for 22nd in case you are unable to arrange. Would it be possible to let me know by Sunday morning ? Thanks

    • Thanks a lot Veekay, I now have them confirmed.Thanks a lot..

  5. Wow Sharmila! you write very well – the photographs are fantastic too. I did not realise the blog updates were actually from yours! got to check this out more often

  6. parmaatma Says:

    Lab pe paabandi nahin ehasaas pe pehraa to hai
    Phir bhi ahl-e-dil ko ahvaal-e-bashar kehnaa to hai

    … … … There’s no restriction on speech yet feelings are watched
    … … … Nonetheless my heart has to describe the state of my life

    Apni gaiyrat bech daalen apna masalaq chhod de
    Rahnumao mei bhi kuch logon ko ye mansha to hai

    … … … Trade my self-esteem, keep aside my beliefs
    … … … Even some of my teachers hope I do at times

    Hai jinhe sab se zyaadaa daavaa-e-hubb-e-vatan
    Aaj un ki vajah se hubb-e-vatan rusavaa to hai

    … … … Those who claim aloud their love for the nation
    … … … That same nation today is shamed by their deeds

    Bujh rahe hai ek ek kar ke aqeedon ke diye
    Is andhere ka bhi lekin samna karna to hai

    … … … Lights of aging doctrines are dying one at a time
    … … … This darkness left behind, is to be faced somehow

    Jhoot kyun bole farog-e-maslahat ke naam par
    Zindagi pyaari sahi lekin hame marnaa to hai

    … … … Why should we lie for the sake of prudence?
    … … … Life’s good no doubt but die we must anyhow

    —Sahir Ludhianvi (translit mine)

  7. Sharmila,

    Another small piece of good news – please let me know if you find such articles too long for your comment space.

    Los Angeles, California (CNN) — A trendy California sushi restaurant says it’s closing after being accused of serving illegal whale meat.
    The company that owns Santa Monica’s The Hump restaurant had already apologized for the whale meat accusation earlier in the week.
    The restaurant’s Web site said: “After 12 years doing business in Santa Monica, The Hump will be closing its doors effective March 20, 2010. The Hump hopes that by closing its doors, it will help bring awareness to the detrimental effect that illegal whaling has on the preservation of our ocean ecosystems and species.”

    The investigation into the eatery began in October when two members of the team that made the documentary, “The Cove” visited The Hump, officials said.
    “The Cove,” which exposes the annual killing of dolphins at a Japanese fishing village, won the Academy Award for Best Documentary earlier in March.

    Armed with a hidden camera, two women from the documentary captured the waitress serving them whale and horse meat and identifying them as such, a federal criminal complaint said. A receipt from the restaurant at the end of the meal identified their selection as “whale” and “horse” with a cost of $85 written next to them.
    The women snuck pieces of the meat into a napkin and later sent them for examination to a researcher at Oregon State University. He identified the whale sample to be that of sei whale, prosecutors said.

    The meat from whales, considered an endangered species, cannot be sold legally in the United States.
    The restaurant, located at the Santa Monica Airport, is known for its exotic fare. Its Web site asks diners to surrender themselves to its chefs for “a culinary adventure … unlike any that you have previously experienced.”
    Prosecutors have also charged Typhoon Restaurant Inc., the parent company of the restaurant, and one of its chefs — Kiyoshiro Yamamoto, 45 — with the illegal sale of a marine mammal product for an unauthorized purpose.
    The misdemeanor charge carries a federal prison sentence of up to a year and a fine of up to $200,000 for the company, federal authorities said.
    The Endangered Species Act and the Marine Mammal Protection Act make it illegal, except under very limited circumstances, to hunt, kill or capture whales and also prohibit trade in the animals or any part of them.

  8. Renate – Not at all. Infact this is wonderful that culprits like these are taken to task. Boy, I love the US for getting things right on most occassions as these.

  9. Sharmila,

    Now don’t get too excited, they still get plenty of things plenty wrong…

  10. Survival it is! OOps ….! 🙂

  11. 40 yrs. world’s reservoir excluding USA is not a very bad situation. Hopefull they find other alternatives by then.

  12. parmaatma Says:


    Our own Mayawati is a case in point.

    With her ‘Clowning Glory’ life would be full of cricket and murder mysteries!

    Even AB is obsessed about it. His wife is a politician. Her term is getting over in June. And she needs a nomination from her party to continue in teh Rajya Sabha. She happens to be with SP which is opposed to Mayawati. And Mayawati is holding the Bachchan family by their tails – a whopping 200 Cr worth of property in UP under her jurisdiction.

    AB can do all the laughing and clowning on his blog, but his wife has some serious tightrope walking to do in the next 3 months!


    • parmaatma Says:

      Oops, I mean without her ‘Clowning Glory’


    • Lol…! Holding AB & Family by Tails…! 🙂
      Wow..! That Mighty Maya showing AB her Maya in True sense it seems. Even if his wife gets a nomination, it would be not just a tough fight but a kind of WAR situation. Although JB has very Dim chances to get nomination and support from her party after Amar Singh resignation episode. That’s the reason AB running around for political alliance & support from diff. politicians.
      Does it mean That his Laugh on blog is his last laugh…!?? Look what happened to Aishwarya episode!? He must have thought that he can take entire world on his stride via his blog. He allowed his fans bashing Mumbai Mirror Editor in abusive manner for that matter..!!!
      BTW the one you read on Mumbai Mirror sight is not me. someone else used my name/id. i couldn’t snatch away that privilege & pleasure to defend herself from Aishwarya…. 🙂 Not my nature to poke my nose in others Affairs ! Don’t you think…!? 🙂

    • Aah! You got plenty ‘Glorious Clowns’ there ! 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:


        My last entry on this page before moving on to ‘en paera Rajni!’ on the next page! 🙂

        I am sorry about the MonaLisa in the Mumbai Mirror! I mistook that one because of the mighty swing and left handed jab taken at the reporter! The MM scribe must have got it under the chin! You are quite capable of that! 🙂

        AB is an old generation socialite. There is hardly any association that is under the carpet!

        His ancestral property in New Delhi is in Sheila Dixit’s territory. His property in UP is in Mayawati’ area. His property in Pune and Mumbai is in Thackerey’s domain.

        He is a complete honest Indian in that sense. At least he is not known to be using the underworld or hundi accounts to manage his wealth.

        (I am just giving the devil his due! Not marching in the streets for him!)

        🙂 🙂

    • I wonder who is going to have the last laugh..!

      • parmaatma Says:

        Sharmila, MonaLisa,

        Technically speaking, we the people are going to have the last laugh… because we are normally the last ones to understand their jokes!!


      • and it is not necessary that all jokes are understood.

      • parmaatma Says:


        I wonder how many on AB’s blog realize that he is talking of Mayawati!

        He is taking on adverseries of size! Probably placating Mulayam or the Congress!

        The wild he is talking about is actually the vast majority of backward class supporting Mayawati!

        She may look like a clown to him but she is a source of hope for the tribals!


      • Hope or No Hope ! She is the winning ‘Dark Horse’ in this hoodlum defeating those shiny,glamorous White Ponies so far ! 🙂

      • parmaatma Says:

        Spot-on MonaLisa!


  13. It seems you love to travel and explore nature.It usually is quite boring for me to listen or read about someone’s adventure trip,but,here it wasn’t the case.The way you described your journey never let me feel bored….it seldom happens with me……….and the pics were fantastic…..hope you have enjoyed your trip….

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